Adapted from a recipe in Sunset from Chef Michael Johnston of Colorado's Cloud Nine Alpine Bistro.
This stroganoff is rich, comforting and full of deep, earthy flavor. Chef Johnston makes his version with local elk tenderloin, but beef tenderloin, particularly grass-fed, makes an easier-to-find and excellent substitute, since both are very lean.
Serves 4 to 6
1 ½ pounds beef tenderloin
1 cup flour
1 ½ teaspoons fine sea salt, divided
½ teaspoon pepper
5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
2 cups mixed mushrooms (shiitake, cremini, and oyster), trimmed and sliced
2 shallots, chopped
2 garlic cloves, chopped
1 cup dry red wine
4 cups beef stock
1 pound tagliatelle or fettuccine
½ cup sour cream
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
¼ cup crème fraîche (optional)
Cut meat into ½-inch cubes and pat dry. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, 1 teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper. Add meat to bowl and toss to coat; lift out, shaking off any excess flour.
Chop 4 chives and set aside. Cut remaining chives into 1-inch pieces and set aside.
Heat a wide 6-quart pot over medium-high heat for 2 minutes. Swirl in 2 tablespoons oil. Add half of meat in a single layer and cook, without moving, until browned. Turn meat and brown on all sides, 6 to 8 minutes; transfer to a plate. Swirl 2 more tablespoons oil into pot, add rest of meat, and brown rest of meat.
Pour remaining 1 tablespoon oil into pot. Add mushrooms, shallots, garlic, and remaining ½ teaspoon salt and cook, stirring, until mushrooms release their liquid, about 5 minutes. Add wine and simmer until liquid is reduced by half, about 5 minutes. Add stock and bring to a boil; reduce heat to medium and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the liquid is reduced by half, about 25 minutes.
Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add enough salt to make the water as salty as the ocean. Add noodles and cook until tender. Reserve ½ cup cooking water and drain noodles.
Add sour cream, mustard and browned tenderloin to mushrooms and reduced stock and simmer about 2 minutes for medium rare. Season with salt and pepper. Add noodles and toss gently but thoroughly to coat. Toss with chopped chives and some reserved cooking water to loosen sauce, if necessary.
Serve in wide, shallow bowls, each serving topped with crème fraîche, if desired, and a couple of chive pieces.